Beaujolais in motion – diversity of expression in a charming wine region
For many Americans, Beaujolais still conjures up the third Thursday in November when the “Nouveau” is released. And, while Beaujolais Nouveau has its undoubtable merit as a fun, fruity, and light-bodied treat, there is so much more in the region to appreciate.
To understand why Beaujolais offers so many different expressions, let’s consider the soil diversity. There are 300 distinct soils across this region, which is south of Burgundy and just to the north of Lyon. There are also a variety of elevations in this lovely landscape.
Those wishing to dig deeper into this historic wine region (where they’ve made wine for 2,000 years) should start with familiarizing themselves with the 10 cru Beaujolais regions: St-Amour, Juliénas, Chénas, Moulin-à-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Régnié, Brouilly, and Côte de Brouilly.
I had a chance to learn more about what’s happening in Beaujolais today at a trade event in NYC, where producers poured their wines at a multi-course lunch to show that Beaujolais are meant to be shared with friends and paired with a range of flavors.
Since my earliest wine classes, I’ve learned that Beaujolais is one of the most food-friendly red wines because of its high acidity and low tannins. The wines, predominantly made from the Gamay grape, are known for being light-bodied and easy-drinking. Because it’s less heavy than, say a California Cabernet Sauvignon or French Bordeaux, Beaujolais lets the food on your plate shine, while complimenting rather than competing with the flavors of the meal.
At our lunch, we sampled the following:
Famille Chermette Beaujolais 2023 – This Beaujolais uses whole cluster fermentation and short maceration to capture the grape’s cherry fruit flavors and bright acidity.
Mommessin Saint-Amour Grandes mises 2023- This wine is fermented with whole clusters of fruit and undergoes a long maceration of 15 days and then aged in cement tanks. The grapes grow in granite soil. This produces a more structured, fuller bodied Beaujolais with darker fruit flavors. It was a stunning match with the mushroom toast we enjoyed as a starter to the meal.
Pascal Aufranc Juliénas Les Crots 2023 – Julienas is the oldest cru in the region. The clay soil of these vineyards gives the soil a bit more tannin. I also found this wine to be a more full-bodied Beaujolais with dark fruit and a bit of spice on the palate.
Jonathan Pey Fleurie Fonfotin 2023 – I’ve always been partial to wines from Fleurie, and this one had a pretty, floral nose and an overall elegance. This was a lighter bodied wine with tart cherry flavors and thoroughly enjoyable with and without food.
Chateau des Jacques Morgon Cote du Py 2023 – Deep in color and rich in flavors of dark cherries and spice, this was an amazing pairing with the burger sliders that were served. I learned that Morgon and burgers are considered a perfect pairing, and I’m a believer!
One note about Beaujolais is to give the wines a slight chill before serving. They were the first “chillable” reds that I came across on my wine journey, and this event made me appreciate their freshness and approachability even more.
